Exmoor - Part 2

Exmoor is a national park and covers near 270 square miles of land, mostly in the county of Somerset, with some also in Devon. It has rough moorland, gentle rolling hills, farmland, rivers,  and coastline and is spectacular, in that understated English way ;-)

We took a "safari" over Exmoor which meant we were able to go off-road a bit and see parts of the landscape we wouldn't usually get to see from the main roads.  We were hopeful of seeing deer but only saw them, at a distance, through binoculars.  We did however see the gorgeous Exmoor ponies roaming wild (see previous post).

On the safari we visited the Tarr Steps, a "typical clapper bridge construction".  It's thought to date from around 1,000 BC.  This particular bridge was washed away when the river was in flood in the winter of 2012. It's now been reassembled and a note made of the placing of the stones so, should it happen again, it can be rebuilt properly again!

We drove through the ford at the steps, great in a 4x4!

I loved hearing the water running over the stones....

And this Labrador clearly adored being in the ford....

Further along our trip we came across this magnificent fungi....

Some of the moorland was wilder with heather.......

And now and a head would pop up from grazing....

Some of the "lanes" we drove up were very narrow - just farm tracks....

And wee hamlets hugged the side of hills....

Exmoor has a gentler feel to it compared with Dartmoor, which is in South Devon. Our guide on the safari thought that Exmoor was the more feminine moor, and Dartmoor the more masculine. That's a good description. Though neither are to be messed with in the changing weather conditions!

I love the thick trunk of this tree.....

And there are wonderful woods too. This was more of a conifer woodland, but there were native British woodlands there too....

There was a sculpture trail too, and this fellow was keeping guard.....

Next post I'll show you some photos of the coastal scenery around Exmoor.....

Exmoor - Part 1

So back to holiday photos..... oh it seems ages ago now that I was in sunny Somerset! One of the places I wanted to visit was Exmoor, particularly the Exmoor Pony Centre at Dulverton. This small centre is a charity and mainly run by volunteers. It's aim is "working to promote and conserve the Exmoor Pony".

I love Exmoor ponies! My old pony, Badger, was thought to have Exmoor blood in him as he had the toad eyes and "mealy" muzzle that is so characteristic of them.  He was also a cheeky character! This lovely boy was brought in from the field to meet us - his reward was a lovely haynet, and a few pats too!

Meanwhile in a nearby field two other ponies were quietly snoozing in the sun, so relaxed their bottom lips were all floppy!

While this pony wanted to see what all the fuss was about.....

It was a lovely relaxed feeling at the centre and the various volunteers chatted to us about the ponies and how they are looked after.  Some of the other ponies were out on a ride across the moor so it was fairly quiet in the yard.  One of the staff who works with handling the young ponies also chatted to us for quite a while, telling us how she goes about getting the ponies used to being handled, and then used to being backed and eventually ridden.  Exmoor ponies make great riding ponies. Ooooh SO want one!!

Anyway we then set off on a "safari" across Exmoor (more of that in my next post) BUT we saw one of the herds of Exmoor ponies on the moor. Ooooh it was a very special moment to see mares with foals at foot and the magnificent stallion.  All the ponies are owned but are able to roam the moor in family herds, being brought off the moor when necessary, so they are really semi-feral.

And a better view of the young foals....

Hallo Handsome!  He is a beautiful boy!

It really was a lovely day to spend around ponies!

An Autumn interlude....

More holiday pictures soon but I just wanted to share the photo of the sun about to set tonight. It's really moved across the landscape since mid-summer.  It's hurrying now to hide behind the Hoy hills for Winter!  I'm coming to terms with Autumn..... at least when she gives us days like this!

Graemsay "late summer" Dance...

I interrupt my holiday photos to bring you news of our late summer dance held in the Graemsay hall last Friday.  John & Leslye Budge, our friends from Hoy, came over again to provide music and instruction on some of the traditional Scottish dances.  We were also delighted that Ruby Manson, formerly of Quoys on Graemsay, now of Stromness, was able to join us again. She plays a mean fiddle tune!  Ruby used to come along (she still has family on the island) but due to ill health hadn't been to the dances or a while. So it was great to see her here again and we're hoping she can come along to the harvest home too....

Part of the reason for the dance was to learn some new steps, part to just well... party, and part to celebrate the refurbishment of our hall. The first time in it's history (since WWII).  Neil Mowat had led a small working party but done most of the work himself. Our hall is looking VERY smart now and we are all thrilled with it.  A vote of thanks was given to Neil to pass onto the other workers.

Traditional Scottish dancing is now taught in schools and there are classes and groups where you can learn. The Orkney folk on Graemsay would have learnt to dance, but those of us from outside Orkney haven't a clue!  We can manage one or two dances at our events but most of us are struggling with more than just the basics.  So John and Leslye took us in hand (literally) and off we were to learning the Westray One-Step, The Eva Three-Step, the Gay Gordons, a Canadian Barn Dance and some others I have already forgotten!

The young ones get up to dance, and when not dancing form the panel of judges!

Folk were soon getting the hang of it and the floor was getting a little crowded - especially if folk were going in different directions

And there was great concentration on which steps were next....

Now and again John sang a song while we all caught our breath, then joined in. I love his rich voice and the traditional songs.......

There was, of course, the supper and this delicious cheesecake, as well as lovely homebakes and savouries....

A chance for a blether (chat).....

And more dancing....

While some of the younger folk had a go at joining the band....

A lovely night was had by all.  AND I nearly turned into a pumpkin, not getting home until nearly 1am.... fortunately I was escorted home by John & Leslye who were staying with me so I wasn't abducted by the trowie folk ;-)

The train now arriving on Platform 2.....

...... is for Minehead.... and it's a STEAM TRAIN!! Whoo hooo I cried in response to the aforementioned train.  Oh I cannot begin to tell you how thrilled I was to find the West Somerset Steam Railway had a station at Watchet where we were staying for the week. I became quite geeky about it in a very limited way. But I learnt the timetable so I could look out for the tell tale steam streaming through the countryside, and listen for the Toot-Toot as it approached a station or level crossing.

The West Somerset Steam Railway is run privately and has an army of volunteers. The locomotives (some diesel and lots of steam trains) run from Minehead to Bishop Lydeard along 20 miles of track through the most stunning countryside. It's mostly for tourists and visitors, and has lots of special event days... I'm sad I missed the Thomas The Tank Engine day ;-)

There are 10 stations along the way kept to the highest of standards, with wonderful historical details at each. Some stations have a cafe or perhaps a museum or a walk into an nearby village.  The carriages are very comfortable (and fitted to modern safety standards and have toilets but MUCH better kept than your average "British Railway" train OR station).  Hmmmm I think I need a career change -I want to drive a steam train. Tee hee!! I doubt I could see out the window, never mind stoke the fire.... ah but I can dream.....

Travelling along was like being in the old 1940/50's movies, or a "Miss Marple" adventure (minus the bodies). All the staff were so enthusiastic and so friendly.  And nobody minded me going choo-cha-puffa as a train went past (no really they DO make that noise!!).  Though A. was trying to disown me most of the time I did that........  There's more on the history of the railway here.

I'm just too young to remember steam trains as a regular train service, but I remember my Dad speaking about travelling on them to Wales. I remembered him saying not to stick your head out the window as you'll get smuts of coal dust and smoke in your eyes! And tales of the steam train going over the viaduct in Folkstone (Kent) during the night.

Minehead was great as there were lots of steam trains on tracks and in sidings, some of them being worked on. I was worried about this one with it's front open.... it looked as if someone had taken a can opener to it! (I'm sure it was fine really....).

At all the stations visitors were just fascinated by the steam locomotive and lined up to have their picture taken or just look at the engines.....

I mentioned the stations - they had flower tubs and baskets, old style lamp-posts.....

Luggage carts..... gosh - remember the days of PORTERS who would move your luggage for a few pennies? OLD pennies?!

And a reminder that the steam trains were THE transport of their day carrying passengers and moving other goods - like milk in churns like these.

And Minehead as well as a museum had an old style bookshop too.....

Oh but the locomotives.....sigh....

And so dear readers..... to my very wobbly/shaky video taken on my iPod of.... a steam train..... see they really DO go choo-cha-puffa.... you listen! (Sorry for those of you on poor broadband speeds as you may not be able to view this....)

If you are EVER in the Minehead to Bishop Lydeard area GO ON A STEAM TRAIN RIDE!! (Ahem.... we spent an entire afternoon just going up and down the line...... ).  Thank you to the West Somerset Railway folk for making this wee woman very happy :-)

Strawberry Hill House (Twickenham)....

While still in London we visited Strawberry Hill House, the former gothic mansion of politician, writer and collector Horace Walpole (1717 to 1797).  He and two friends, amateur architect John Chute and draughtsman and designer Richard Bentley formed what they called "The Committee of Taste".  Though I snorted at this description when the tour guide told us, I have to say wandering around they at least had some *good* taste! Which is more than can be said for some of our more contemporary "Taste Police" ;-)

The house is the "earliest and finest examples of the Gothic revival" and has recently been restored. It's quite a fun house to go around and it's interesting how "modern" it felt in some aspects. Though it was totally over the top in others!! But the "Committee" used techniques we would recognise today, like using wood and paint it to look like marble.  Now how many "makeover" TV shows use MDF and paint it for effect?!!

My favourite little touch were the antelopes on the stairway. Now encased in a light frame to protect their fragility.

The wallpaper in the background is Trompe-L'oeil as is much of the wall covering in the house.

Look - she's smiling!

And this light in the hallway is positively Art Deco!











I love the design of this fireplace. Again it has a trompe-l'oeil effect as it is painted wood.

I
While this is a corner of the beautiful Robert Adam Fireplace

Some of the windows have exquisite Dutch stained glass in them - but not in the panes that would spoil the view of the landscape outside!

This Library is one of my favourite rooms - deeply bonkers, wonderful and truly gothic!

With another trompe-l'oeil ceiling.....

But the most extravagant room is the gallery - complete with gold leaf and crimson damask! What I loved about this house was that, as it was newly renovated, all the colours were really bright- just as they would have been when created. It gives a real feel for a place, unlike so many "old houses" that are a faded shadow of their former selves.

Outside is wonderfully gothic too as you can see from the photo at the top of this post and here....

And gorgeous stone dogs holding the crest between their paws..... (I want the antelope though!).

If you want to read more about Strawberry Hill House they have a website.

In my next post I'll take you on a ride on a Steam railway in Somerset....... all aboard!!